Saturday, December 16, 2023

161) Guadalupe Mountains National Park

Visited: Saturday, December 16, 2023.

Meh.  So - it didn't help any that Megan wasn't up for a hike, after walking through Carlsbad Caverns.  But there really isn't all that much to do here besides hiking.  The visitor center is pretty basic - no movie, a very small and static exhibit, and a small bookstore.  No camping, but that's not our thing anyway.  Not really any place to drive.  

Pretty mountains, though.

160) Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Visited: Saturday, December 16, 2023.

Oh, my my...

1) I never heard about the drive to Carlsbad Caverns.  Not one thing.  But it is _gorgeous_.  I'm not a big "pretty drive" person - I had all of two drives I've found so enjoyable I wanted to drive them again.  (H3 in Hawaii and Bear Tooth Pass in Montana.)  Well, now I have #3.  

2) We only took the self-guided tour, because Megan's ankle is bothering her, and our timing wasn't right for seeing the bats.  But it is phenomenal.  I'm not a huge cave person, but I have visited a few - and this is miles above.

3) We went early, and - I cannot recommend going early strongly enough.  It nearly felt like we had the place to ourselves, which is a great way to see the caverns.  By the time we left, things were significantly busier - if not bad at all for a pretty December Saturday.

4) Once again, our trip concluded with the desire to go back again.  There were multiple possibilities we ruled out because of Megan's ankle, and - I enjoyed the experience enough that coming back sounds like a fine idea.  It's one of the challenges of visiting the NPS sites - many of them are so enjoyable that we want to come back, but going back is time spent not going to sites we haven't been to.  So we try to be conservative with going back places.  But Carlsbad Caverns is undoubtedly worth another visit.

Friday, December 15, 2023

159) White Sands National Park

Visited: Friday, December 15, 2023

Oh, my.  Let's see...

1) White Sands was a national monument, not a national park, until 2019.  It's still signed that way most places.

2) On Highway 380, you pass a turn-off to the Trinity site; perhaps the nicest patch at the White Sands bookstore is actually for the Trinity site.

3) The white sands themselves are treated as snow, effectively.  They are plowed, they look like snow.  A sandball does _not_ throw nearly as well as a snowball.  On the other hand, sand slush is much more pleasant than snow slush.

4) Just before you get to Amalogordo, there is a tourist trap which definitely ensnared us.  Pistachioland is advertised all the way up to Albuquerque - over three hours away.  And it's - really, mostly just a gift store.  With "the world's largest pistachio" statue out front.  It's actually rather a nice gift store as such things go.

5) At white sands, the yucca plants survive by growing very, very tall.  Which works fine until the sand drifts away, at which point the giant stalks collapse.  You can see these at the sight; while the sight as a whole is great, this might be my single favorite fact about the site.

6) At the gift shop - just over from the bookstore - they sell sleds; we saw a number of folks sledding - or rather, attempting to sled - down the sand dunes.  I know some can manage it - there are some sled tracks - but this isn't snow; it's not slippery.  They sell wax at the gift shop to, which undoubtedly helps, but - you're still trying to get down a fairly grippy surface.

7) The Lincoln National Forest, East of White Sands, doesn't really look anything like a forest when you first enter.  Over time, however, you see more and more (and more) trees, and it earns its name.

8) The movie, right next to the bookstore, is well worthwhile.

9) Given time, the thing we didn't do which most tempts is the sunset tour.  

10) Almost forgot - driving along 380, there are four "roadside tables".  Labelled as such, and literally tables - picnic tables? - with covers, and nothing else.  I have no idea why these exist.  But a "rest stop" was the same thing, but with _four_ covered tables.  So - a roadside table is apparently 25% of a rest stop.

158) Petroglyph National Monument

Visited: Thursday, December 14, 2023

This is a very low-key park - honestly, just the type of park I'm most drawn to.  There are petroglyphs _everywhere_ - they recommended not going to two of the three areas due to rain that morning, but even just a short walk along the trail at the third site lead to dozens of petroglyphs, of all sorts.  If you're in Albuquerque, there's really no reason not to stop by.

Friday, July 21, 2023

157) Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park

Visited: Wednesday, July 19, 2023

I am still amazed that more people don’t take advantage of ranger talks.  When we got to Skagway, we were happy to have enough time, for a change.  And so we went straight to the visitor center to find talks of interest, and noted two - one on how Dyea and Skagway, towns of equal size during the gold rush, changed trajectories so quickly, and one on the buffalo soldiers stationed in Skagway.  The latter - held at the house of the man who realized the potential of Skagway before gold had been discovered - was particularly interesting - and only Megan and I were there to hear it.  Other than the NPS site, I can’t recommend the town - like many things here, it’s overrun with petri dishes for humans ( a.k.a. cruise ships) - but the NPS site is very well done.

155 & 156) Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve

Visited: Tuesday, July 18, 2023

I fear after Kenai Fjords, I am becoming a little inured to wildlife - and very inured to glaciers.  This is a beautiful park, and we got to see orcas two more times and humpbacks and sea lions.  But the two highlights for me were the film which we only got to watch part of in the visitor center, which focuses on the underwater wildlife and was really spectacular, and our second encounter with orcas, when I was as close to them as I have ever been.  Including at Sea World of Ohio, growing up.  I do wish we had taken a plane or seaplane, rathe4 than a boat from Juneau - it was a long day.

154) Sitka National Historic Park

Visited: Saturday, July 15, 2023 - Sunday, July 16, 2023

It was really nice to (1) visit a historic park, rather than a national park, again, and (2) actually be given time to explore it.  Unfortunately, things were timed such that we didn’t get to see the Russian Bishop’s House, but otherwise we covered things pretty well.  Sitka, for both local and colonial history, is rather old, and has more to it - battles and more battles and departures and  returns and growing acceptance - than I would have guessed.  If you find yourself in Sitka, the raptor center and bear fortress are worth visiting as well.

Thursday, July 13, 2023

153) Kenai Fjords National Park

Visited: Wednesday, July 12, 2023 - Friday, July 14, 2023

The real visit of the park was on Thursday; on Wednesday, we saw the visitor center, and we'll go again very briefly tomorrow.  But today we took an eight-and-a-half hour boat ride, getting in to the Northwestern Glacier (named after the school, which mildly surprised me), which was spectacular.  And - not the highlight of the trip.  We saw puffins and sea otters and harbor seals and Stellar Sea Lions and cormorants.  Probably thousands of puffins.  And that still wasn't the highlight.  We saw _three_ pods of orcas - two resident, one transient - all right up close.  And that _still_ wasn't the highlight, at least for me.  We saw a pod of ~10 humpback whales, hunting by bubble net.  Which was simply amazing to see - among other things, it's _not_ often seen in Alaska.  (From Wikipedia: "Bubble net feeding does not occur everywhere. Alaska's cold waters and the high amounts of sun exposure in the summer time produce food for humpbacks.")  But we saw it - and it was awesome.  The whole day was fantastic.  In spite of the fact that I'm not fond of long boat rides, this might have ben my favorite of the parks in Alaska.

151 & 152) Denali National Park & Preserve

Visited: Sunday, July 9, 2023 - Monday, July 10, 2023

Apparently, the first trick of seeing Denali is - seeing Denali.  Only 30% of those who visit the park actually see the mountain.  But we saw it - not the whole thing at once, but the bottom, and then the peaks - and it was impressive.  Our luck with wildlife wasn't so good - we did see Dall Sheep and Caribou and Arctic Ground Squirrels.  But - the most notable part of the park for me was the extent to which it _is_ preserved.  There is a road in - only NPS buses use it, and only during the summer - but things have been disturbed as little as possible, which makes for a unique experience.  Very pretty - though busy to an extent we haven't seen in Alaska.  Not Yellowstone busy or anything - just not so sparse.

Saturday, July 8, 2023

149 & 150) Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve

Visited: Saturday, July 8, 2023

Today - did not go as planned.  We were supposed to visit Anaktuvuk visitor center, and then go on to Barrow (which, I have learned, it the name everyone here still seems to use for the city), but the weather did not cooperate.  Our tour was able to visit the closed (and to be decommissioned) visitor center at Bettles, along with the Bettles Lodge, but - that, unfortunately, was it.  Not a bad trip - but not what we were hoping for.

Oh, and during this trip we discovered why the "& Preserve" is there.  Hunting is allowed on Preserves; it is not allowed in National Parks.  So the areas where hunting happened were included as preserves, to get locals to buy in to the designation of the national park.

147 & 148) Wrangell - St. Elias National Park & Preserve

Visited: Wednesday, July 5, 2023-Friday, July 7, 2023

This - was spectacular.  The mountain ranges themselves are great, the glaciers on them fantastic - and the plane ride to Kennecott was something else altogether.  Our pilot would tip the plane so that everyone could see the interesting sights, from glaciers to waterfalls to mud volcanoes to unearthly rock structures.  And then there was Kennecott - an old mining operation where we got to see all 14 floors of the operation.  Though the guide we had referred to the gravity concentration tables as shaker tables (which I consistently heard as Shaker tables)...  The only thing I didn't care for was the lack of air conditioning - which, to be fair, hasn't generally been a shortfall for the lodge.

McCarthy, the town where the mill workers - um, spent their money, shall we say - was not so interesting.  Though another shuttle, on the way there, came across two bears on the road, and at least one other was spotted while we were there.

145 & 146) Katmai National Park & Preserve

Visited: Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Katmai is known for it's bears, and it did not disappoint - we saw nine bears, including five cubs.  But the most spectacular sight might have been a bald eagle, swooping past an animal which had been killed by seagulls, sitting at the top of a tree ignoring the seagull attacks, and then swooping back to capture the animal and fly away from the rather upset seagulls.  Unfortunately, we were too early for salmon - only one couple in our group saw any - but it was still a very enjoyable trip.

143 & 144) Lake Clark National Park & Preserve

Visited: Monday, July 3, 2023

Our main tour of the Alaska parks has now started, and we kicked it off with the beautiful Lake Clark.  Recommendation: If you have the choice of taking the Beaver Pond trail or the main trail to get to the waterfall, take the main trail, _particularly_ if it's wet out (whether actively raining or not).  The Beaver Pond (which now, in my mind, is Bunny Hop) trail is, as advertised less steep.  But it's much longer, much narrower, much more covered in roots that will do their best to trip you, and if it's wet - it will drench you.  The waterfall is well worth visiting - it's the highlight of the park - but the sharp climb at the start of the main trail levels off, and it's a fine hike after that.  The flight into the park was rather good, passing close by multiple glaciers, some rather spectacular.

Update: I realized, after, that many of the National Parks in Alaska count as two units (officially one for the park, one for the preserve), even though there's only one place to visit.  Numbers being updated to match...

Friday, June 30, 2023

142) Kobuk Valley National Park

Visited: Friday, June 30, 2023

If getting there is half of the fun, it's also half of the hassle.  We started yesterday with the discovery that our first flight of the day had been cancelled - and the alternatives on offer involved a delay of at least two days.  So we booked a flight to San Francisco, figuring it puts us _much_ closer, and that we might wiggle on to a flight.  In the end we did; we arrived in Anchorage around 11:30, and got to our hotel just over 24 hours after waking up.  Normally this would call for sleeping in, but we had a flight to Kotzebue this morning, getting us north of the Arctic Circle for the first time.  And after a quick bite of lunch, we were walking to the NPS visitor center here in town when time came for our trip to Kobuk.  And, on the way back, we picked up passengers in Kiana, a town with fewer people than I've attended gaming conventions with.  It reminded me, truth be told, of picking up the passenger in Ab die Post.

But the destination - Kobuk is absolutely nothing like what I think of when I think of Alaska.  It's - a sand dune.  Surrounded by trees and water and mountains and glaciers - there's even a glacier _in_ the sand dune - and it feels like it was dropped there by accident.  The flight there was beautiful, there was no one else at the sand dunes when we were there (Kobuk is one of the least visited national parks - you really have to want to get here to make it), and it was worth the visit.