Monday, October 3, 2016

47 Revisited) Saugus Iron Works

Visited: Saturday, September 24th, 2016

We likely visited our final NPS site for the year with a return trip to the Saugus Iron Works.  This time, we did the iron works house tour.  Which - is historically odd, in that it post-dates the iron works (though it is from roughly the same era; it was built ~20 years after the iron works closed), and was remodeled to fit Wallace Nutting's view of what it _should_ look like.  Not what it _did_ look like - though Nutting did make changes which brought the house closer to it's historic roots, he also added features to make it a better fit for how he felt it should look.  Which, in retrospect, have little to do with the scant evidence that exists of how it did look.

But the tour was yet another reminder of the advantage of signing up for ranger talks at every opportunity...

Tuesday, August 9, 2016

23 Revisited) Minute Man National Historic Park

Visited: Monday, August 8, 2016

I really want to visit Minute Man sometime in April.  The visitor center is simple, but well done at any point, but I'd love to see a reenactment, and to walk along the battle road.  Of course, another April activity doesn't leave much time, so I'm not sure when or if it will happen, but it's definitely on the to-do list.

It was really nice to see the presentation - it's notably more than a simple movie - and to see the site of the farm where the leader at North Bridge lived, just up the hill from the bridge.

22 Revisited) Roger Williams National Memorial

Visited: Monday, August 8, 2016

Being in the area, and anxious to see more parks on the 100th anniversary of the NPS, we stopped by Roger Williams.  There wasn't a need - but Williams really was a remarkable individual, and hearing about what he did - and how he did it - again was quite enjoyable.  For such a small site, the memorial really is rather remarkable.

110) Blackstone River Valley National Historic Park

Visited: Monday, August 8, 2016

Well, kind of.  The National Historic Corridor spawned the NHP back in 2014, and things haven't progressed much since - we got our passport stamped, but there's currently not much else to do at the site, other than to say hi to Ranger Kevin.

Monday, July 18, 2016

109) Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site

Visited: Monday, July 18, 2016

This was a really fascinating site to end this particular tour with.  Once the site of an endless array of earth lodges - when Lewis & Clark were here in 1804, there were as many Native Americans living here as there were people living in Saint Louis - the site has the advantage of being both interesting because of the people who lived here and for the role in the Lewis & Clark expedition.  It was here that they recruited the husband and wife team of Toussaint Charbonneau and Sacagawea to the expedition, returning them on their way back to Saint Louis.  But the history of the Mandan and Hidatsa tribes here is perhaps even more interesting, as their amish-like raising of earth lodges (our ranger told us it took 9 months to build the replica that stands there today - but just two weeks for the tribe) to their advanced agriculture (as Westerners came in, they adapted many seed lines from these tribes) to the story of their interactions with Westerners, so different from the stories of other tribes.  Add in a great historical perspective - a historian met with an older Hidatsa woman in the early 20th century, and captured her story - and some other items of interest (Knife River flint was found as far away as Pennsylvania; it can be identified as Knife River flint because of the unique caramel coloring), and it's a site well worth visiting.

Sunday, July 17, 2016

108) Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Visited: Saturday, July 16, 2016-Sunday, July 17, 2016

Hitting Roosevelt was one of the keys for me on this trip; as I came to realize the distances involved, and the trip kept getting smaller, Glacier and Roosevelt were the two constants.

Having now visited Roosevelt - well, it made sense to include it on this trip.  But I'm not sure I'd go so far for a repeat visit.

The park is divided into three sections - the North Unit, and South Unit, and Elkhorn Ranch.  The third of these - only accessible via unpaved, steep roads, subject to washout - is actually the only one with a true direct connection to Roosevelt, being his home for a number of years after his wife's death when he tried to make it as a rancher.  We didn't attempt to get there, but did visit the other units, each of which contains an area of badlands.  It's a pretty landscape, but the badlands aren't as impressive as those in South Dakota, and the wildlife not as impressive as that in Yellowstone or Glacier.

Having said that, we did conclude our animals-walking-in-front-of-our-car portion of the trip by having a bison walk out in front of us, walk ~20 yards down the road, then head off to the side.  And the prairie dog colonies in the South unit are quite impressive - and rather adorable.  I'm glad to have been, but there's just not the pull for me of Glacier or Acadia, on the whole.

I was happy to see that the oil industry in North Dakota - which I'd heard was coming very close to the park - is not so bad that I saw any operations while in the park.  Might just have not looked in the right places, but I'm happy to report that it's not omnipresent, in any event.

I'd never really spent much time in North Dakota before, but now having spent a bit my impression is of Texas, but with more grass.

Saturday, July 16, 2016

107) Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site

Visited: Saturday, July 16, 2016

The main parking lot for the Fort Union Trading Post is in North Dakota, and is on Central Time.

The overflow parking lot for the Fort Union Trading Post is in Montana, and is on Mountain Time.

Unfortunately, that's about the most interesting thing about the site, as it exists today.  The history of the site is fascinating; it was a key trading post between Native Americans and - well, Non-Native Americans for forty years.  But the fort was torn down in the 1860s to provide material for a military fort (Fort Buford).  What's there today is a partial recreation of the fort.  It's not bad, but not really worth the long drive.  Not a site we'll be revisiting.

14 Revisited) Little Bighorn Battlefield

Visited: Friday, July 15, 2016

While there weren't hordes of bikers this time, the park was still very busy - particularly in contrast to Bighorn Canyon.  But we got to hear a ranger talk, which we hadn't the previous time.  Just too popular a site to really resonate with me as well as the smaller parks - the contrast to Big Hole stood out to me.  I think a really fascinating Summer could be spent exploring the history of conflicts with Native Americans in the West, though I'm afraid the subject is too depressing for it to appeal sufficiently to me. 

106) Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area

Visited: Friday, July 15, 2016

Of all of the NPS sites, National Recreation Areas might be the ones least suited to us.  We're not campers, or fans of water sports, which are typically two of the recreations these sites are focused upon.  But Bighorn Canyon does have a nice dam - no tours, post 9/11, unfortunately - and a nice visitor center that dates back to about 1966.  And we were the only visitors, for the whole time we were there.  Interesting place, but I'd only recommend it for those who'll take better advantage of the recreations offered.

Thursday, July 14, 2016

13 Revisited) Yellowstone

Visited: Tuesday, July 12, 2016-Thursday, July 14, 2016

One of my great disappointments when we visited Yellowstone in 2009 was in not seeing Old Faithful.  Well, I _saw_ Old Faithful, but it didn't really fire - it burbled.

This time, it fired - which was very impressive - and quite a relief.  Yellowstone is an impressive park, and the geysers are fascinating, but it's just not my favorite park - Glacier, for instance, I found much more interesting.  And I think I know why - Yellowstone has many fascinating places, but they're spread all over.  Glacier (and Acadia) pack their wonders into a much smaller footprint.  So there's less driving around, and more appreciating the parks.  And Yellowstone felt far busier than Glacier, which didn't help my appreciation any.

We did see elk and mule deer and two wolves - and herds of bison, which seem to be the most common animals in the park.  A mule deer and a wolf passed right in front of our car, an elk just in front of the car in front of us, and a bison was within 5 feet of our car.  Oh, and for the second time we ended our trip to Yellowstone with a drive over the Beartooth Scenic Byway, one of my favorite drives ever.  I can't recommend the byway strongly enough - it's not a difficult drive, but one climbs to nearly 11,000 feet, and the views are just sensational.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

105) Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site

Visited: Tuesday, July 12, 2016

One of the things I love about the NPS is the variety of the units; Grant-Kohrs is a working ranch - it was transferred to the NPS as such, after well over 100 years as an active ranch, surviving from the days of open ranching to the 1970s.  But by being turned over intact, one of the most interesting aspects of the site is that _all_ of the furniture is original.  I'm used to having a piece or two, or maybe even a handful, being pointed out as being authentic; here, there's _nothing_ to point out as being a reproduction or being from the right era - except for the step stool chair, where a duplicate was made for demonstration purposes - and then the original is pointed out.

Grant-Kohrs is a very nice site, and well worth visiting if travelling near Butte, but unless fascinated by open range ranching, probably not worth going out of the way for.

Monday, July 11, 2016

Rating Presidents by 2015 NPS Site Visits

I found a report showing how many folks visited 368 of the NPS sites in 2015.  And I thought it would be interesting to list the presidents in order of their site visits.

Lincoln Memorial (4)
George Washington Memorial Parkway (6)
FDR Memorial (27)
Thomas Jefferson Memorial (31)
Jefferson Memorial (48)
Theodore Roosevelt National Park (110)
Washington Monument (123)
Lincoln Home (168)
LBJ Memorial Grove (169)
Adams (188)
Home of FDR (190)
Theodore Roosevelt Island (200)
Lincoln Birthplace (205)
Washington Birthplace (214)
Herbert Hoover (216)
LBJ (219)
Lincoln Boyhood (226)
Jimmy Carter (259)
Eleanor Roosevelt (262) (sorry, couldn't resist)
Eisenhower (276)
Andrew Johnson (286)
Ulysses Grant (295)
Harry Truman (309)
Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural (320)
James Garfield (322)
William Howard Taft (323)
Martin van Buren (332)
John F. Kennedy (333)
W. J. Clinton Birthplace (347)
Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace (356)

Lincoln and Washington leading the list is no surprise.  But Kennedy behind Hoover, Johnson (both), Eisenhower, Grant, Garfield, Taft, Carter, and van Buren?  Never would have guessed that...

104) Big Hole National Battlefield

Visited: Monday, July 11, 2016

I learned a fair bit about the Non-Treaty Nez Perce today.  Big Hole National Battlefield is in the middle of nowhere - Wisdom, MT is about 90 minutes drive from Butte, 120 from Missoula.  As a result, the battlefielld is remarkably preserved - there are none of the issues common to Civil War battle sites.  But the battle is a prelude to battles such as Wounded Knee.  But whereas I'd heard of Wounded Knee, I'd never hear of Big Hole - even though it was on a very similar scale.  The "battle", as it were, was primarily the killing of women and children.  It was interesting to contrast with the Wounded Knee Museum we visited; Big Hole is fairly presented, but unlike Wounded Knee doesn't seem to be aiming so directly for an emotional reaction.  I suppose, too, that Big Hole was just _a_ loss, rather than the final loss, for the Nez Perce.

Definitely a park that will stick with me.

Sunday, July 10, 2016

103) Glacier National Park

Visited: Saturday, July 9, 2016-Sunday, July 10, 2016

Telling fact about Glacier - Ethan was spellbound by the beauty of the park.  There's much to be said for a national park that can get through to a 17 year old.

Glacier is another contender for my favorite of the National Parks.  It didn't hurt any that on Saturday we got to see a mother moose and her two calves, wading through the river.  A bunch of cars had pulled off to view them; Megan and Ethan saw them, but I hadn't been able to while driving.  But we were the first to pull off further up the road, and after a little wait they came to see us.

Then on Sunday, driving towards Many Glacier (a wonderful viewing point, by the way), we saw a young bear - far enough away to be comfortable.  Then later in the day we saw a couple of mountain goats, completing the trifecta.  Oh, an a twittering ground squirrel, to go with the moose.

And, of course, the best part of Glacier isn't the wildlife...

I've never connected with the national parks as much as Megan has.  The historic sites have always been my favorites.  But Glacier - when I can drive the length of Going to the Sun road in the rain, tired from being up for 18 hours (with more than 6 hours on planes), and _still_ appreciate the drive - well, it's clearly gotten through to me.

Sunday, April 3, 2016

102) Castle Clinton National Monument

Visited: Saturday, April 2, 2016

This is where you buy tickets to go to the Statue of Liberty, if you didn't already get them online.

Unfortunately, that's most of what the site is, today.  The history of the site - presented in one small room - is really quite interesting; built to help defend New York City, it never actually served in that was, but became part of the NY social scene, then a key immigration point, then an aquarium.  Restored to the historic look, in many ways site feels much more authentic than Federal Hall.

101) Statue of Liberty National Monument and Ellis Island

Visited: Saturday, April 2, 2016

Both Megan and I had been to the Stature of Liberty before - over 30 years before - at a point when continuing on to Ellis Island after wasn't an option.  It was still very impressive to see the statue up close again - and the ranger who lead a talk about the statue was excellent, giving insight into the groups (women and African Americans) who felt left out of the promise of liberty.

Ellis Island was fascinating.  We took the hard hat tour, and it was excellent - it's the only way to get to see the hospitals, which are really fascinating; the infectious disease ward has held up better than the general hospital, but both are very interesting places.  The care afforded immigrants was really quite impressive - while there was a desire to not let diseases into the country, there really wasn't a desire to punish folks for being ill - just a desire to heal them.

100) African Burial Ground National Monument

Visited: Friday, April 1, 2016

We hadn't really planned to visit this site, but after being underwhelmed by Federal Hall, we decided to give it a go.  And went through the most thorough security screening I recall; I had to remove my glasses to get through.

The site was excellent, and a very fitting 100th NPS site to visit.  Rediscovered when a federal building was being built here during the 1990s, the burial ground was called one of the most important archaeological digs of the 20th century, providing unique insight into the early life of free and enslaved Africans in New York.  Most touching is the memorial, a tribute to those whose graves were disturbed when the site was discovered.

99) Federal Hall National Memorial

Visited: Friday, April 1, 2016

The site of Washington's first inauguration, and the initial home for congress and the federal government - in a building that was demolished over 200 years ago  And where a new building was built - and eventually became an NPS site due to the importance of the site.  Really not the most interesting of NPS sites, so we decided to move on.