Friday, September 17, 2021

141) Herbert Hoover National Historic Site

Visited: Friday, September 17, 2021

This is really a rather remarkable site.  Hoover's wife decided, upon his leaving office, to restore and preserve the cottage where Hoover was born (his later boyhood home having already been torn down), which led to there being four historic buildings a short walk from the visitor center - in addition to the cottage, his father's blacksmith shop, the Quaker meeting house, and a schoolhouse.  The library and museum are also right nearby, though unfortunately they were closed during our visit.

I had not realized that Hoover's parents both passed away when he was so young; it's not often someone outlives their parents by 80 years.

140) Effigy Mounds National Monument

Visited: Thursday, September 16, 2021

Growing up in Ohio, Native American burial mounds are familiar - even if I've still never seen the ones in Ohio.  And I learned at Effigy Mounds that there are actually a very large number of burial mounds around Columbus, even if the most well known one (I assume) is further south.

The amazing thing here is that these mounds were preserved, thanks to a local amateur archeologist.  Of particular note are the "marching bear" mounds - each the same size to a remarkable extent, and giving the impression of marching across Iowa.

There are a number of nice views of the Mississippi from the drive, as a bonus.

Tuesday, September 14, 2021

139) Pipestone National Monument

Visited: Tuesday, September 14, 2021

As a practical matter, I never spend as much time as I should researching NPS sites before we visit.  Which has an upside; there's an element of surprise.  And - I knew nothing about Pipestone, except for a little bit about George Catlin's association with the site, which we heard about at Saint Croix.

And - it's a wonderful site.

The site is named for the soft (2.5 Mohs) stone found here which many Native American tribes used to make - pipes.  There's a nice, if small, exhibit about the pipemaking; there were also petroglyphs found here, which have been moved but are well kept in the visitor center.  So far so good...

...but there are also Native American artists making pipes; they have three stations set up, and one artist was working while we visited.  This is - very cool.  But...

...they also sell artwork by the artists who work there.  Not pipes, but other objects - all very nice.  And...

...they have a very nice trail, from which you can see multiple active pipestone quarries.  Including one you can descend into, to see the layers.  Also...

...there are the natural rock formations themselves, which led the Native Americans to the site in the first place.  But then...

...there's the waterfall.  And the river, and the lake.  It's really a beautiful site - far prettier and more diverse than one would expect from such a small site.  This is probably my favorite site from this trip - though it's definitely not Megan's, so take that with a grain of salt.

Oh, and as a bonus, on the way we stopped at the Jeffers Petroglyphs, a site with extensive drawings, dating back thousands of years.  Unfortunately the visitor center is only open Saturdays, so we missed out on that, but the petroglyphs themselves were enjoyable.  The even more spectacular view came on the drive - we saw two _large_ birds ahead on the road.  We assumed they were large crows, or maybe turkey vultures - but in fact they were bald eagles, and we got to see them closer than I've ever seen a bald eagle before.

Monday, September 13, 2021

138) Saint Croix National Scenic Riverway

Visited: Monday, September 13, 2021

The part of the river we saw is quite nice, and the ranger at the visitor center was very informative - and quite talkative.  And the movie -- featuring Walter Mondale, due to his role in protecting the river - was quite interesting, if - claiming a bit more than justified on occasion.  Yes, one big dam project was stopped, but there are a number of smaller dams on the river, and have been for years.  On the whole, not my favorite style of NPS site, but still well worthwhile.

137) Voyaguers National Park

Visited: Saturday, September 11, 2021

I'm not sure just what to think of Voyageurs.  On the one hand, it's quite pretty, and on a nice boat trip to Kettle Falls we saw a whole bunch of bald eagles.  On the other hand, as national parks go - it doesn't have the best story.  There's some nice natural beauty - but honestly, Pictured Rocks or Apostle Islands offer similar experiences.  And Grand Portage does a _much_ better job of telling the story of the voyageurs.  I enjoyed it, I'm glad we went, and thrilled we were able to book the boat ride, but - it's not a park I really need to get back to.

I'm amused that I kept getting closer and closer to Canada by visited smaller and smaller waterfalls.  At Niagara Falls I was a few blocks away from Canada; had I known that we wouldn't be going to Europe, I probably would have gone.  Then we got to International Falls, 1/2 block from Canada.  And then on the way to Kettle Falls - which has no falls, by the way, just some rapids that have been replaced by a dam - we actually went into Canada.  Well, Canadian water, at least...

Friday, September 10, 2021

136) Grand Portage National Monument

Visited: Friday, September 10, 2021

I had no idea what Grand Portage was until we visited.  And it's - out in the middle of nowhere.  Well, it's not _that_ far from Thunder Bay, but when it's difficult to get into Canada, it's a long way from everything.  But it's well worthwhile - the cultural center gives a great background on how the area rose to prominence (and the history of the Native Americans _after_ the site lost it's prominence), and the rebuilt trading post (and the ranger who told us about it) give a good feel for how a British trading post in American operating as French made a long go of this site.  It's a unique story, and it's very well told.

135) Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

Visited: Thursday, September 9, 2021

Unfortunately, the main visitor center was mostly closed, and the Little Sand Bar visitor center was closed for the season.  But there's a fair bit to do around Little Sand Bar, even with the visitor center closed, and we saw 5 of the 22 islands, all from the mainland.  Not the ideal way to experience the park, but not bad.

What I wish we'd done: well, that's hard to say.  I'm not a fan of boats, and so I don't regret our decision not to book a tour on this trip, but - I'd like to try one sometime.  Not at the top of the list to do, but on the list.

134) Isle Royale National Park

Visited: Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Well, visited overstates things quite a bit.  We discovered that there is a visitor center for the park in Houghton, MI, and stopped by, watching a 25 minute long video which - has changed how we plan to _actually_ visit the park, when the time comes.

What I wish we'd done: actually visited Isle Royale, of course.

133) Keweenaw National Historical Park

Visited: Wednesday, September 8, 2021

This park has an interesting story to tell; it's all about the history of the copper mining of the area.  But it's an oddly put-together site; the historic site, vis-a-vis the visitor center, is quite nice, but there are a _lot_ of other components to the site - a number of mines (which we passed on, not being anxious to go underground), and a number of hikes and the like.

The story of the Italian Hall panic of 1913 was rather heartbreaking - a union event there during a strike was interrupted by an anti-union person yelling fire, leading to many deaths in the panic.  The strike was, in many ways, the beginning of the end for the business.

We drove by a number of the mines, but the one other stop we made was at the Porcupine Mountains; it's a separate site - a state park - but was the most interesting of the many (many) areas recommended by the Keweenaw NPS site.  The Porkies are well worth visiting if you're in that part of Michigan.

Tuesday, September 7, 2021

132) Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Visited: Tuesday, September 7, 2021

For some reason, my mind wants to call this site _painted_ rocks, not pictured.  But it's a beautiful site, with sandy beaches on Lake Superior, gorgeous rock formations, and many waterfalls.  Not having enough time to plan, we settled for a sampling of the treats, but very much enjoyed what we got to see.

What I wish we'd done: scheduled a boat tour.  It's far and away the best way to see many of the structures; I can easily picture us coming back to do so, when we finally get to Isle Royale

Unrelated: What I didn't expect coming here - there are pasty shops all _over_ the upper peninsula.  Apparently a result of miners from Cornell coming to the UP after the tin mines back home closed, but - nearly every local restaurant seems to advertise their pasties.

131) Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Visited: Monday, September 6, 2021

This was the start of an on-the-fly trip, set up to replace the trip to Europe that we had to cancel at the last minute.  And it was a rather spectacular start, on the whole.

The park consists of lots of shoreline, as would be expected, but includes a variety of features including the dune which it's named, a plethora of forests which fight with the dunes for control of the land, an old rescue boathouse which, while not open due to Covid, had an excellent docent who was very informative and engaging, and lots of dunes to climb.  We settled for one - giving us a great look onto Lake Michigan - and really enjoyed the lookouts from the Pierce-Stocking drive.  We didn't opt for the main dune climb - frankly, I hate sand, and the earlier path (which filled my shoes with the stuff) was more than sufficient for me.

What I wish we'd done: take the ferry to North and/or South Manitou Island.