Visited: Saturday, September 15th - Sunday, September 16th, 2012
I've been to Cape Cod before, previously, just twice. Two enjoyable times, to be sure, but the traffic makes it uninteresting for me from Memorial Day to Labor Day. And while I had visited the Marconi site, that was really all of the national seashore I'd seen previously. I'd also not arranged either previous trip there.
So in many ways, this was my first real experience with the Cape, and certainly my first experience with the NPS site, and I must say - it's very enjoyable.
We started with the visitor center in Eastham, which runs five films on a fixed schedule; we hit the film on the geology of the cape, in addition to the one on Marconi, plus the nice museum at the site. We then went up to Provincetown to visit the Old Harbor Life-Saving Station, hitting some bad traffic on the way (well, how else would we have known we were on the cape?), but getting there in time to see a fascinating remnant of America's past. Of particular interest was a map showing wrecks up through 1900, and how the building of the Cape Cod Canal essentially eliminated the wrecks - and thus the need for these stations. As we crossed the canal, I'd been wondering what lead to it being built; unlike the Erie or Ohio canals, it wasn't for commerce, but - for safety.
We then hit the Province Lands visitors center, which shows the same films on demand; we asked for Thoreau's Cape, which was excellent - it's a very different view of the cape. The visitor center also has an excellent observation tower. We then visited downtown Provincetown for the evening before heading to our hotel, in North Truro.
Finally, we joined the ranger-led hike "Shoreline Stroll", around Great Island, this (Sunday) morning. It was fascinating and well worthwhile in and of itself - but with the high tide we got to view:
* Dozens of crags, of at least two different varieties,
* The oddest coming in of the tide I've ever seen, as water came in sideways to one point,
* A gorgeous midday at the beaches, first on the gut side and then on the harbor side, and finally,
* A coyote, who we apparently disturbed while taking a bath.
(Not right up close, but close enough to see well, and wonder at first what we were seeing.)
Overall, the Cape Cod National Seashore is well worth visiting.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
Sunday, August 26, 2012
64) Salem Maritime National Historic Site
Visited: Saturday, August 26th, 2012
We'd planned to visit Salem Maritime earlier in our journeys, but for various reasons had put it off. And - it wasn't really worth the wait. I was particularly disappointed that a significant portion of the visitor center was focused on - the witch trails, and on general Salem tourism. I strongly suspect, based upon the information that was available, that a better job (defining better as better-for-me) could be done with the site. I'd love to have seen more information about the history of trade coming from Salem; some of the stories hinted at were fascinating.
But, on the whole, it's one of the less interesting sites I've been to. I suspect a greater interest in the witch trials would have helped. And not getting a migraine at the end of the trip couldn't have hurt. But still - Saugus Iron Works is a _far_ better option, nearby.
We'd planned to visit Salem Maritime earlier in our journeys, but for various reasons had put it off. And - it wasn't really worth the wait. I was particularly disappointed that a significant portion of the visitor center was focused on - the witch trails, and on general Salem tourism. I strongly suspect, based upon the information that was available, that a better job (defining better as better-for-me) could be done with the site. I'd love to have seen more information about the history of trade coming from Salem; some of the stories hinted at were fascinating.
But, on the whole, it's one of the less interesting sites I've been to. I suspect a greater interest in the witch trials would have helped. And not getting a migraine at the end of the trip couldn't have hurt. But still - Saugus Iron Works is a _far_ better option, nearby.
Saturday, July 14, 2012
Additional Thoughts
Visiting 15 NPS sites in a week was wonderful - but also really tricky to blog on the go.
One thing that stood out for me at Channel Islands was the absurdity of hitting the Atlantic Ocean and heading East, and then hitting the Pacific Ocean and heading West - one week apart.
Of the 15 parks, the ones that stood out most for me were the John Muir NHS, Redwoods NP, and Fort Vancouver NHS. (Boy, I thought it would be easy to pick a top three, but it wasn't. I also considered Cabrillo, Channel Islands, Muir Woods, Golden Gate NRA, and Lewis & Clark NHP., and I suspect my answer would vary if I thought about it again later.)
One thing that stood out for me at Channel Islands was the absurdity of hitting the Atlantic Ocean and heading East, and then hitting the Pacific Ocean and heading West - one week apart.
Of the 15 parks, the ones that stood out most for me were the John Muir NHS, Redwoods NP, and Fort Vancouver NHS. (Boy, I thought it would be easy to pick a top three, but it wasn't. I also considered Cabrillo, Channel Islands, Muir Woods, Golden Gate NRA, and Lewis & Clark NHP., and I suspect my answer would vary if I thought about it again later.)
Saturday, July 7, 2012
63) Mount Rainier National Park
Visited: Friday, July 6th, 2012
Some sites requires different approaches. Mount Rainier is definitely one of those; I'm convinced that to reasonably visit the site one wants to visit all five areas, and spend enough time at a couple for some hiking, at a minimum. Which, in turn, requires being much more awake and energetic than we were by the time we got here.
Because without that, it's a beautiful mountain, with amazing views along the road. But that's really a minimalist approach to the park; enjoyable, but not really telling.
Some sites requires different approaches. Mount Rainier is definitely one of those; I'm convinced that to reasonably visit the site one wants to visit all five areas, and spend enough time at a couple for some hiking, at a minimum. Which, in turn, requires being much more awake and energetic than we were by the time we got here.
Because without that, it's a beautiful mountain, with amazing views along the road. But that's really a minimalist approach to the park; enjoyable, but not really telling.
Thursday, July 5, 2012
62) Fort Vancouver National Historic Site
Visited: Thursday, July 5th, 2012
Many of the NPS sites - maybe even most - comprise of a single location. Others span multiple sites, such as the Golden Gate NRA and Lewis & Clark NHP. Even when there are multiple sites, sometimes only one is of real appeal; others are clearly secondary.
And that looked like it might be the case with Fort Vancouver. The wonderful introductory video highlights five primary uses of the site over time - by the Chinook Indians, as a British fort, as a US Army site, as an early airport, and as a WWII ship factory. With all that history, there was a lot to do; our favorite stop was the Air Museum, which had a separate entry fee that was entirely paid for when the boys got to sit in a WWII-era Navy training plane.
But - there's another portion of the site, 30 minutes to the South. The original person responsible for Fort Vancouver, Dr. McLoughlin, was fired for not turning back Americans coming out along the Oregon Trail, and in fact giving them land in Oregon. And thus he ended up living in Oregon City, and eventually becoming a US citizen. And his house, preserved by one group or another since 1909, is part of the Fort Vancouver NPS Unit - and a real treasure. The tour we received was fantastic - and the house is amazing. The whole site is well worth visiting, but McLoughlin's house is the perfect way to end a day there. Note that the house closes earlier than the main site, and that you want to go on one of the tours.
Many of the NPS sites - maybe even most - comprise of a single location. Others span multiple sites, such as the Golden Gate NRA and Lewis & Clark NHP. Even when there are multiple sites, sometimes only one is of real appeal; others are clearly secondary.
And that looked like it might be the case with Fort Vancouver. The wonderful introductory video highlights five primary uses of the site over time - by the Chinook Indians, as a British fort, as a US Army site, as an early airport, and as a WWII ship factory. With all that history, there was a lot to do; our favorite stop was the Air Museum, which had a separate entry fee that was entirely paid for when the boys got to sit in a WWII-era Navy training plane.
But - there's another portion of the site, 30 minutes to the South. The original person responsible for Fort Vancouver, Dr. McLoughlin, was fired for not turning back Americans coming out along the Oregon Trail, and in fact giving them land in Oregon. And thus he ended up living in Oregon City, and eventually becoming a US citizen. And his house, preserved by one group or another since 1909, is part of the Fort Vancouver NPS Unit - and a real treasure. The tour we received was fantastic - and the house is amazing. The whole site is well worth visiting, but McLoughlin's house is the perfect way to end a day there. Note that the house closes earlier than the main site, and that you want to go on one of the tours.
Wednesday, July 4, 2012
61) Lewis & Clark National Historical Park
Visited: Wednesday, July 4th, 2012
Oddly, the website for this park suggests as a first stop a place not associated with the park, the Astoria Column. And - it's a great suggestion. Climbing to the top, you get a great view of the area; really a commanding view of the whole of the park, unavailable from any other single point. If you go, buy a glider in the gift store before you go up.
The primary site for the park is Fort Clatsop, the site where Lewis & Clark wintered after they reached the Pacific. And it's very nice, with a good visitor center, an informative movie, a reproduction of the fort, and a number of ranger programs, including one on the weapons carried by Lewis & Clark's party which the boys loved.
The other visitor center is part of the Washington State Park system, at Cape Disappointment. And it's expensive - $10 for a day pass for parking, plus $5 per adult for entry. However, there are NPS stamps there, so collectors of those will want to go, and it's a great overview of Lewis & Clark's expedition out (with some coverage of their return), so those who enjoy history will also want to visit.
Overall, we spent about 5 hours at the various sites (and getting between them) - and the boys put up with it all. Well worthwhile, in my opinion.
Oddly, the website for this park suggests as a first stop a place not associated with the park, the Astoria Column. And - it's a great suggestion. Climbing to the top, you get a great view of the area; really a commanding view of the whole of the park, unavailable from any other single point. If you go, buy a glider in the gift store before you go up.
The primary site for the park is Fort Clatsop, the site where Lewis & Clark wintered after they reached the Pacific. And it's very nice, with a good visitor center, an informative movie, a reproduction of the fort, and a number of ranger programs, including one on the weapons carried by Lewis & Clark's party which the boys loved.
The other visitor center is part of the Washington State Park system, at Cape Disappointment. And it's expensive - $10 for a day pass for parking, plus $5 per adult for entry. However, there are NPS stamps there, so collectors of those will want to go, and it's a great overview of Lewis & Clark's expedition out (with some coverage of their return), so those who enjoy history will also want to visit.
Overall, we spent about 5 hours at the various sites (and getting between them) - and the boys put up with it all. Well worthwhile, in my opinion.
Monday, July 2, 2012
60) Redwood National & State Parks
Visited: Monday, July 2nd, 2012
This is a fascinating group of parks. There are camping and hiking opportunities by the score, but there are also very nice drives available, so long as you're willing to drive on dirt & gravel roads. Actually, there's also a drive parallel to 101 which is gorgeous, and fully paved. Oh, and with some nice elk grounds at the Southern end. (I even spotted them first! That honor almost always goes to Megan...) There's a radar station on one of the dirt drives, disguised very cleverly as a farm. And there is a great short hike off one of the other dirt roads, through old-growth forest, with enormous trees in every direction.
This is a fascinating group of parks. There are camping and hiking opportunities by the score, but there are also very nice drives available, so long as you're willing to drive on dirt & gravel roads. Actually, there's also a drive parallel to 101 which is gorgeous, and fully paved. Oh, and with some nice elk grounds at the Southern end. (I even spotted them first! That honor almost always goes to Megan...) There's a radar station on one of the dirt drives, disguised very cleverly as a farm. And there is a great short hike off one of the other dirt roads, through old-growth forest, with enormous trees in every direction.
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